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3s- GTE engine modifications explained

5 March 2012 No Comment

One of the best ways to modify a 3s-gte motor.

It is always recommended to ensure that the vehicle is safe and reliable before starting on the path of modifications. Check your brakes, suspension components for wear, check for leaks that may be excessive, and ensure your cooling system is operating properly by performing a system pressure test and pressure testing your coolant fill cap. Typically trying to fix a car that has a known issue by upgrading a part to an aftermarket part does not solve the problem unless the issue clearly is with the offending original part. Only use High Octane Fuel with the 3SGTE engine. JDM engines actually were designed to run on High Octane Fuel.

The use of these recommendations is solely the responsibility of the reader. It is not recommended to violate any local city or provincial regulations regarding your vehicle for any reason. This guide contains no guarantees of the results one may achieve with their engine and car. By reading or referencing this guide, that you will accept responsibility for any of your own actions.

The WHP values and times are based on a Dynojet and a 2nd Generation 3SGTE installed in an SW20 MR2.

Stage 0: 160-165whp; 0-60: ~5.9-6.1; 1/4 mile: ~14.5-14.9

Required:
Stock engine
Stock turbo
Stock exhaust
Stock intake
Stock intercooler
Stock fuel system
Stock ecu
Stock ignition
Stock boost control
Stock clutch
Stock axles

Recommended/optional:

Boost gauge – the stock unit is approximately useless. Fine for stock boost levels of 9-11psi, but if you plan to raise the boost, or simply want an accurate gauge, the aftermarket mechanical units works great.

Synthetic Oil – this is a high performance engine. Regular oil changes with high quality synthetic fluids will help to keep your engine running at its best.

Ensure the ignition components are in proper working order and there are no engine codes present in the factory ECU

Stage 1: 200-230whp; 0-60: ~5.2-5.5; 1/4 mile: ~13.5-14.1

Required:
Stock engine
Stock turbo
Upgraded Exhaust

Both

TKO 2.5, TKO 3″, or Single exit R1 exhaust
KO Racing Downpipe
Free Flowing Air intake (Apex’i intake, K&N FIPK, or Cone filter with Vibrant adapter)
Stock intercooler (Unplug the engine lid temp sensor to have the IC fan run always with the ‘key on’)
Stock fuel system
Stock ecu
Stock ignition
Boost Level:
15-16psi with boost controller (Either a manual boost controller, or electronic boost control, bypass the factory boost control)

Aftermarket boost gauge
Fuel cut defenser (factory ecus will typically cut fuel at boost levels above 11psi)
Stock clutch
Stock axles

Recommended/optional:
Upgraded ignition wires and plugs should not make a significant difference in the power output, though reliability and longevity of the parts can sometimes vary from one manufactuer to another. If using OEM Toyota plug wires, they should be changed every 4600 kilometres or when missing occurs (along with cap and rotor). The NGK spark plugs listed in the ignition components section of our website are one heat range cooler than the OEM specification meaning they can handle hotter engine combustion chamber temperatures better than the OEM heat range units. OEM cap and rotor are recommended as being the best units available for the 3SGTE.

Synthetic Oil — this is a high performance engine. Regular oil changes with high quality synthetic fluids will help to keep your enigne running at its best.

Stage 2: 250-280whp; 0-60: ~4.5-5; 1/4 mile: ~12.8-13.2

NOTE: This is the stage where the factory fuel system limits will be achieved. It will be necessary to monitor your air/fuel ratio with a wideband O2 sensor to safely approach these limits when raising boost. You do not want to run leaner than 12.0:1.

Required:
Stock engine
Upgraded Turbo

Options:
Upgraded stock turbo (46trim compressor wheel, 10 degree exhaust wheel clip)
Stock Gen 3 3SGTE turbo (aka CT20b)
Street Brawler T3/T4 Turbo kit
Road Rage GT28 Turbo kit
Upgraded Exhaust

Both

TKO 2.5, TKO 3″, or Single exit R1 exhaust
KO Racing Downpipe (this is not necessary if you purchase a KO Racing turbo kit as the turbo kits come with their own downpipes specific to the particular turbo
Free Flowing Air intake (Apex’i intake, K&N FIPK, or Cone filter with Vibrant adapter)
Upgraded intercooler (KO Racing High Performance Intercooler Kit)
Stock fuel system
Stock ecu
NGK 6097 plugs or 2667 Iridium plugs gapped at .028″, New OEM plug wires

Either a manual boost controller, or electronic boost controller, bypass the factory boost control
Boost Level:
18psi with boost controller on the upgraded stock or CT20b turbos (Either a manual boost controller, or electronic boost controller, bypass the factory boost control)
15-16psi with KO Racing Turbo kits
Aftermarket boost gauge
Fuel cut defencer (factory ecus will typically cut fuel at boost levels above 11psi)

Recommended/optional:
270-280whp is the limitation of what the factory fuel system can produce. If you are unable to achieve this power level safely (as tested on a dyno monitoring the Air/Fuel ratio to be no leaner than 11.8:1) there is likely something under performing in your factory fuel system, ignition system, or ECU. To go beyond this level you will need more fuel which introduces further issues. The factory ECU can control the factory fuel system quite well, but does not do well controlling larger injectors. Piggyback devices such as the S-AFC are strongly recommended to be avoided on the 3SGTE as the potentially engine killing issues associated with the way these devices “tune” the stock computer are too great to risk.

{Thanks Ashwyn}

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